Tag Archive: PraziPro


Yesterday I added 3oml of PraziPro with a 30% water change/gravel vacuum in my 90 gallon tank.  Since the medicine’s instructions boldly state 7 days is all it needs, I’ll be tracking the daily progress here.  Among other things I’ll be tracking color, eye clarity, and poo.  Yes, poo.

It appears keeping discus requires you to be something of an expert in poo.  Since discovering juvenile discus need to be dewormed every 30 days, I’ve found myself darting toward the tank every time I see the event taking place.  Fortunately they all seem to relieve themselves at the same time which makes it easy to tell which animal is having issues.

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The fish in the middle is the one that has me concerned.  He’s a blue diamond, and should look like the one on the left.  Note the greyish body, dark fins and blackened eyes.  Based on the information I’ve encountered, the blackened eyes (cloud eye) can be caused by flukes, or more typically poor water conditions.  Since he’s the only one showing signs of stress and cloud eye, I feel I can safely rule out water conditions.  Some strains of discus, such as pigeon blood (pictured below), don’t generally darken to show stress, so the condition of the second blue diamond is going to be my golden compass.

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I haven’t noticed any fin clamping, but the sick one tends to be lethargic and spends most of his time hanging out at the back of the tank, or away from the group in general.

After day 1 of treatment, there are no changes.  I know it’s too quick for a cure, but since I’ve never used this stuff before I’m also watching for signs of worsened stress.  One thing I have noticed is the other fish seem to be having darker bowel movements.  I can’t be sure if this is a side effect of the medication, or the new brand of bloodworms I’ve started using which claims to be worm and parasite free.

The sick one seems to have less of an appetite than before, but I’ve read a few comments from users who say their appetites might dwindle some from the medication, so I’m not alarmed yet.  I’ll do another 30% water change in two days and, of course, treat the new water.

I’ll keep you posted.

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Sponges, plastic balls, ceramic tubes and grav...

Sponges, plastic balls, ceramic tubes and gravel are all suitable for aquarium filtration (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

After my water has aged in my handy 35 gallon bin, it’s time to do a water change.  The instructions on the bottle of PraziPro recommends adding the medication directly to the filter box if possible.  Using a canister filter, it’s not very practical to open it up and apply the meds so I’ve shut off the water intake hose and moved it from the tank to the aging container.  This will suck the water from the container, run it through the filter, and push it into the aquarium.  Since I’m going with this particular route, I’ve medicated the water in the container for the full 90 gallons which will be distributed into the tank.

A single treatment of PraziPro left in the tank for 5-7 days is sufficient according to the directions.  It allows for treatment as necessary but no more than once every three days.  Since it gives no specific instruction on how to account for water changes, I’ll assume I will only need to replace the medication for the amount of water I’m changing out.  I’m nervous about adding more treatment at every third day, but I’m equally as nervous about not doing any water changes for 3 or more days.  We’ll see how it goes.

A shot of our 10 Gallon tank. Hopefully being ...

A shot of our 10 Gallon tank. Hopefully being used as an example of a personal water tank. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

I think it’s also worth mentioning that some of the information I’ve come across recommends giving juvenile discus worm/parasite treatments every 30 days.  Apparently the discus can come in contact with the parasites through their most beloved food… the bloodworm.  From what I’ve gathered, adults are generally capable of warding off or safely dealing with the parasites through their own immune systems… but as juveniles they are more susceptible.  I cannot guarantee how accurate that  information really is, but it sounds legit. . . . besides, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

I’ve also come across a bit of information that would indicate discus don’t react well to salt in their water, so starting with this water change I’m phasing salt out of the aquarium.  If this proves to be problematic, the frequency of water changes that discus require will make it easy to re-introduce salt to the tank.

At any rate, the tank has been properly medicated and now I can only sit and wait.

Wish me luck!

The discus, Symphysodon spp., has been popular...

The discus, Symphysodon spp., has been popular among aquarium enthusiasts. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Over the last few days, there are some things I’ve learned are absolute requirements for keeping discus.  The first thing, and probably the most important, is to have a quarantine/hospital tank.  Period.  There’s no way around this and if you don’t use one you are destined for difficulties.

The second most-important thing I’ve learned is – YOU MUST AGE YOUR WATER.  Again, there’s no way around this.  If you don’t have an R/O (reverse osmosis) unit or your tank is too large to reasonably purchase R/O water, you must age it.  If you go about doing the regular 50% water changes as recommended for these wonderful fish, and you don’t use R/O or age your water, you will most likely kill your livestock…  Here’s why.

Like a lot of people, I live in a large city (over 2 million) and our water is balls deep in chlorine and chloramine.  I tested the water out-of-the-tap using my API master kit, and the pH was so ridiculous, it surpassed the readout range for the high-range pH test.  It took a double dose (10 gallon treatment for 5 gallons of water) of pH reducer to even make the change in pH register on the test kit.  The pH kit maxes out at 8.8 –  It’s insane.

The pH of the aged water in my aquarium sits at about 7.2, which means there’s an overnight reduction in pH by AT LEAST 1.6 points.  I’ve found information that suggests hobbyists keep their discus in pH that ranges from 6.0 to 8.0 and they do fine.  But even if you keep a higher pH, the constant fluctuation due to regular water changes will kill… or lead to weakened immune systems and the subsequent disease will kill.  Either way, it’s lethal.

Water Colour

Water Colour (Photo credit: @Doug88888)

If you’re like me, the prospect of aging water seemed overwhelming.  With a 90 gallon tank, it seemed ridiculous to have 45 gallons of water just lying around my apartment.  I had decided it would come down to purchasing a 45 gallon fish tank simply to age my water, or keep 9, 5-gallon buckets laying around.  Both ideas seemed absurd, but since I already have the discus there didn’t seem to be much choice… until I called Midwest Reefs.

The guy on the phone recommended a large, watertight trash can.  It was pure freaking genius.  I got in my car and went to my nearest walmart and bought a 35 gallon Rubbermaid trash can.  Boom.  Water aging container.

With an aging container it’s much much easier to add treatments for chlorine, chloramine, salts, and whatever else you might need.  Stick a bubblestone in it, let it sit for 24 hours to release the chemicals from any municipal water treatments, and to allow the pH to drop to it’s natural state.  Then add your pH adjustments (if any), and add to the tank.  If your fish require a water temp higher than most room temperatures (such as discus), you’ll certainly want to add a water heater to the aging container.

Now, on to the disease with which I’m currently struggling. . . . .

Discus

Discus (Photo credit: niomix2008)

Here’s a word you need to add to your fish tank vocabulary,  “PraziPro”.  It comes highly recommended by discus enthusiasts, and covers the gamut of discus parasitic issues like, flukes, tapeworm, flatworms and turbellarians.  It’s a little pricey, but in the end it’s much cheaper than replacing your discus, (same thing goes for the hospital/quarantine tank).  Make sure you read the instructions oh so thoroughly.  That’s the third most-important thing.  Always read the directions thoroughly.  This stuff is supposed to make magic happen in about a week. . . I’ll start treatment tomorrow.  It requires a large water change before treatment, and my new water is currently aging in my handy trash bucket.  If this treatment doesn’t cure what ails him, I’ll probably end up euthanizing it.  I hate taking a life (even that of a fish), but it comes down to one simple rule… the needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few.  It will be much cheaper to replace one discus, than to replace all four when they too become infected.